It’s no problem to travel around Sicily without a car if you just want to visit the main sights and the largest cities.

Trains and long-distance buses run reliably between Palermo, Cefalù, Messina, Taormina, Catania and Syracuse. A car is particularly useful for reaching remote beaches, the mountains, small villages and when travelling across several regions of the island.

Book your hotel in Sicily in advance

The most notable feature of Sicilian transport isn’t a lack of services, but their fragmentation. Trains are operated by a single provider, whilst bus routes are divided amongst several companies. Once you know where to look, travelling becomes much easier.

And I hope this article of mine will help you with that.

Transport in Sicily at a glance

What you want to do	Best transport	What’s important
Visiting the major cities	Train or bus	A car will be a hindrance in historic town centres
Travelling along the coast	Train	Good connections between Messina, Taormina, Catania, Syracuse, Palermo and Cefalù
Visiting secluded beaches and villages	Car	Buses run infrequently or only on weekdays
Head to Mount Etna	Car or organised tour	Public transport has a very limited timetable
Travel only in the west of the island	Buses, trains and ferries	Palermo, Trapani, Marsala and the Aegadian Islands can be reached without a car
To explore a large part of Sicily	Car	In our view, it’s best to hire a car only for part of your stay (not for getting into towns)
Visiting the smaller islands	Ferry	A car isn’t usually necessary

If you mainly want to explore the towns, feel free to give car hire a miss. If you’re planning a round trip, swimming at smaller beaches or trips into the Sicilian hinterland, do also read the detailed section on car hire in Sicily.

Compare car hire prices at Catania Airport

Do you need a car in Sicily?

A car isn’t essential if you’re staying in major cities and travelling along the main rail and bus routes.

You can easily visit the following places without a car:

• Palermo
• Cefalù
• Messina
• Taormina
• Catania
• Syracuse
• Agrigento
• Trapani

We recommend hiring a car for Mount Etna, the Zingaro Nature Reserve, the beaches between Syracuse and Ragusa, the mountain villages or a longer tour of the island.

A combination of both options also works very well. Visit Palermo, Catania or Syracuse without a car and hire one for just a few days for the rural part of your trip. You’ll save on hire and parking costs and avoid driving in the busiest cities.

Best routes by public transport

The following overview shows the transport options we would choose for ourselves on the most common routes.

Route	Best option	Typical journey time
Palermo – Cefalù	Train	1 hour
Palermo – Agrigento	Train	2 hours
Palermo – Catania	Bus and train	2.5 to 3 hours
Palermo – Trapani	Bus	2 hours
Catania – Taormina	Train or coach	1 hour
Catania – Syracuse	Train and bus	1.5 hours
Catania – Ragusa / Modica	Bus	2 hours
Catania – Messina	Train	1.5 hours
Trapani – Marsala	Train	40 minutes
Trapani – Agrigento	Bus	3 to 3.5 hours

On the Palermo–Catania route, always compare both options for the specific day.

The bus is usually faster, whilst the train offers more space and a more comfortable journey. Due to ongoing railway modernisation works, replacement buses may be in operation.

Trains in Sicily

The train is the most straightforward form of public transport on the island. All regular services are operated by Trenitalia and can be found in a single timetable.

The network isn’t extensive, but along the coast it serves many of the most popular destinations. The following rail routes are the most convenient:

• Palermo – Cefalù – Milazzo – Messina
• Messina – Taormina – Catania – Syracuse
• Palermo – Agrigento
• Trapani – Marsala – Mazara del Vallo
• Syracuse – Noto – Modica – Ragusa

Most trains fall into the Regionale or Regionale Veloce categories.

Seat reservations are not compulsory, and the fare does not increase as the departure time approaches. It is therefore not necessary to buy a ticket several weeks in advance – you can simply buy one at the station (there are ticket machines everywhere, which also accept cards).

There are no high-speed trains in Sicily. There are also long-distance Intercity services and the night-time Intercity Notte, which continue by ferry across the Strait of Messina to the Italian mainland.

How to buy a train ticket

The most convenient way is to buy online or via the Trenitalia mobile app. You can still buy a digital regional ticket just a few minutes before departure.

The digital ticket is automatically activated at the scheduled departure time of your chosen train. Manual check-in is no longer required.

The ticket is issued in the name of a specific passenger. During a ticket inspection, the conductor may also ask to see proof of identity.

Paper tickets purchased from a ticket machine or at the ticket office must be validated in the validator at the station before boarding. An unvalidated paper ticket is not valid.

Ticket machines accept both payment cards and cash. However, at smaller stations, a ticket machine may not be available, so we find the mobile app a more practical option.

When the train isn’t the best option

Railway stations are not always located directly in the destination town.

Taormina-Giardini station is situated on the coast, well below the centre of Taormina. You’ll need to continue to the historic centre by city bus or taxi.

The station near the town of Enna is also situated in a valley. A long-distance coach is usually a more practical option for travelling directly to the historic centre.

We do not recommend taking the train between Palermo and Trapani either. A direct coach is significantly faster and usually offers more frequent services.

Similarly, the route between Catania and the towns of Ragusa or Modica is usually much quicker by bus; on the other hand, the train journey is truly magnificent.

Buses in Sicily

Buses serve areas without a railway and are faster than the train on some routes.

They are a good option, for example, between Palermo and Catania, Palermo and Trapani, or for journeys to Ragusa and San Vito Lo Capo.

Where to look for a bus first

For long-distance journeys, we recommend starting your search on FlixBus. As well as its own buses, it also offers some services operated by partner carriers.

FlixBus has a much clearer website than most Sicilian transport operators, is available in many languages and allows for easy card payments.

You simply need to show your ticket on your phone, and for services operated within the FlixBus network, you can also track the bus’s location.

Search for tickets on Flixbus.com

Through FlixBus, you can, for example, book journeys between Palermo, Catania, Catania Airport, Enna, Messina, Trapani, Marsala or Syracuse.

The service also includes long-distance buses that continue by ferry to the Italian mainland.

However, FlixBus does not cover all regional routes. If you cannot find the connection you are looking for, please visit the website of the relevant local transport operator.

How can you search effectively for other bus connections?

Google Maps is not a reliable bus search tool in Sicily.

It displays trains and some public transport services well, but many regional and long-distance buses are completely missing. If Google Maps cannot find a connection, this does not mean that the route in question does not exist.

When searching for buses, we recommend the following approach:

1. For journeys between major cities and airports, start with FlixBus. Here you’ll find FlixBus’s own routes as well as some services operated by local companies. Searching for and buying tickets is much more straightforward than on the websites of most Sicilian transport operators.
2. For regional routes, use Sicilia Mobilità. This joint journey planner searches for buses from dozens of local operators and can also combine them with trains and ferries. It’s the best first choice when travelling to smaller towns or when changing transport.
3. If you can’t find a connection, try Annacati. This independent Sicilian journey planner brings together timetables for regional buses, local transport, trains and ferries. It also covers some operators that are missing from Google Maps or Sicilia Mobilità.
4. For eastern Sicily, also check TPLSicilia. The website brings together transport operators serving the areas of Catania, Ragusa and Siracusa.
5. Before travelling, check the specific service on the operator’s website. The exact timetable, services on Sundays and public holidays, the departure point and any booking requirements are always best confirmed by the company actually operating the bus. You can find the operator in the search results or in the table below.

None of these search engines lists absolutely all Sicilian buses. The most reliable approach is therefore to use FlixBus for main routes, Sicilia Mobilità for regional connections, and then to double-check on the operator’s website.

Use Google Maps mainly to find the exact location of a bus stop and for walking directions. Do not rely on it for the actual timetable of a regional bus service.

Main long-distance and regional operators

Operator	Key areas and connections
FlixBus	Selected long-distance routes between Sicily’s largest cities, airports and mainland Italy.
SAIS Autolinee	Palermo–Catania, Palermo–Messina and connections to the towns of Enna, Caltanissetta, Gela, Caltagirone and others
SAIS Trasporti	Agrigento–Caltanissetta–Enna–Catania and other routes in central and southern Sicily.
Interbus	Eastern and south-eastern Sicily: Catania, Taormina, Messina, Syracuse, Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Scicli and others
Etna Trasporti	Services connecting Catania with the towns of Gela, Licata, Caltagirone, Piazza Armerina, Ragusa, Taormina and Giardini Naxos.
Segesta Autolinee	Palermo–Trapani, routes via Palermo Airport and services to the towns of Alcamo, Balestrate, Partinico and Terrasini.
AST Sicilia	Catania–Etna to Rifugio Sapienza and many regional routes across Sicily.
Prestia e Comandè	Bus between Palermo Airport and Palermo + regional services around Palermo.
Autoservizi Russo	Palermo and Palermo Airport – Terrasini – Balestrate – Castellammare del Golfo – San Vito Lo Capo
Autoservizi Salemi	Palermo and its airport–Marsala–Mazara del Vallo–Castelvetrano, long-distance services to the Italian mainland.
Autolinee Lumia	Trapani, Marsala, Mazara del Vallo, Castelvetrano, Sciacca, Agrigento, Porto Empedocle and Realmonte.
Autolinee Gallo	Palermo–Sciacca–Ribera–Agrigento and selected routes via Corleone.
Autoservizi Cuffaro	Palermo–Agrigento via Aragona and Raffadali, and Palermo–Canicattì via Favara or Racalmuto.
Camilleri & Argento	Agrigento, Raffadali, Cianciana, Bivona, Santo Stefano Quisquina, Cammarata and Palermo.
BusAway	San Giovanni Gemini and Cammarata, with connections to Agrigento and Palermo.
Autolinee SAL	Agrigento–Porto Empedocle–Licata–Gela–Comiso Airport.
Autolinee Giamporcaro	Catania and Catania Airport–Comiso Airport–Comiso–Vittoria–Ragusa–Marina di Ragusa.
Tumino Bus	Ragusa, Ragusa Ibla, Marina di Ragusa, Santa Croce Camerina, Punta Secca and Comiso Airport.
Caruso Midolo	Direct regional service between Noto and Ragusa.
Viaggi Simili	Caltagirone, Mineo, Ragusa, Comiso Airport and surrounding towns.
Tarantola Bus	The archaeological site of Segesta, selected routes in western Sicily and local transport on the island of Favignana.
Sommatinese	City buses in Cefalù and routes to Gibilmanna, Gratteri, the Madonie Mountains and Palermo.
Autolinee Glorioso	Cefalù, Castelbuono, Gangi, Palermo and other destinations in the Madonie Mountains.
ISEA	Nicosia, Troina, Cerami and San Teodoro, with connections to Enna and Catania.
Zappalà & Torrisi	Acireale, Giarre, Riposto, Catania and villages on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna, including Zafferano Etnea and Trecastagni.
Giuntabus	Messina–Milazzo and the port of Milazzo.
Flibco	Airport buses between Catania Airport and the port of Milazzo.
Ferrovia Circumetnea	Narrow-gauge railway around Mount Etna, the Catania metro and selected connecting bus routes.
Itabus	Selected stops in Sicily and long-distance or night services to the Italian mainland.
MarinoBus	Long-distance bus services connecting Sicilian towns with mainland Italy.

Buying bus tickets

For long-distance services, we recommend buying your ticket online. Buses have a limited number of seats and popular departures may sell out.

It is usually sufficient to show your e-ticket on your mobile phone. It is usually linked to a specific service and boarding stop. The possibility of changes or refunds depends on the operator and the type of fare.

For local buses, tickets are sold at ticket machines, newsagents, the operator’s offices or from the driver. Do not rely on being able to pay by card directly on the bus.

A standard suitcase fits easily into the luggage compartment of a long-distance coach. Check with the operator regarding the rules for oversized luggage, bicycles or sports equipment.

How to read Sicilian timetables

Italian terminology	Meaning
Feriale	Weekday; often Monday to Saturday, but check the note
Festivo	Sundays and public holidays
Scolastico	Only on school days
Non scolastico	During school holidays
Excluding Saturdays	Does not run on Saturdays
Return	Return ticket

On Sundays and public holidays, the regional bus service is significantly reduced. Some local routes do not run at all.

If you’re planning a day trip, first check the last return service and only then look for the morning journey there.

Where to find the right bus stop

In Palermo, Catania and Trapani, there are several bus terminals and stops. Do not rely solely on the general term ‘bus station’.

Check the exact name of the stop on your ticket or in the service details, and look up its location on a map.

In Catania in particular, different operators depart from locations around the main railway station, which may be a few minutes’ walk apart.

Make sure you arrive at the long-distance bus platform at least 15 minutes before departure.

Ferrovia Circumetnea

The Ferrovia Circumetnea narrow-gauge railway runs through the towns and villages on the slopes of Mount Etna. The name suggests a simple circular journey around the entire volcano, but it does not operate in this way for regular services or for journeys to the summit.

Rail services between Catania and Paternò are suspended due to metro construction. This section is served by buses, whilst trains continue between Paternò and Riposto. Ferrovia Circumetnea publishes the latest service information.

Circumetnea’s regional trains and buses do not run on Sundays or public holidays. The journey is slow and is mainly worthwhile if the journey itself and a visit to towns such as Bronte or Randazzo are the main purpose of the trip.

The Circumetnea does not go to the cable car or the main starting point for the ascent of Mount Etna. For a trip to Mount Etna, it is more practical to go by car, the infrequent AST bus or an organised excursion.

Travelling by car in Sicily

A car offers the greatest freedom, but you’ll really appreciate its benefits outside the major cities. In the centres of Palermo and Catania, you’ll have to contend with heavy traffic, parking and restricted-access zones.

In our experience, a small car is the best choice. It’s easier to manoeuvre through narrow streets, park in historic towns and handle standard mountain roads.

Take the journey times shown on your sat-nav with a pinch of salt. Side roads can be narrow, winding or in poor condition. A route of several dozen kilometres may take significantly longer than the distance would suggest.

You can find more information on insurance, security deposits, fuel and choosing a car hire company in the section on car hire in Sicily.

Transport from airports

Flights to Sicily mainly land at Catania and Palermo airports. The smaller airports at Trapani and Comiso are suitable for specific parts of the island, but offer fewer connecting services.

Airports	Best transport	Suitable for which areas
Catania	City buses, trains and long-distance coaches	Catania, Taormina, Mount Etna, Syracuse and the south-east of the island
Palermo	Train or bus to the city centre	Palermo, Cefalù, Trapani and the north-west of the island
Trapani	Bus	Trapani, Marsala, Palermo and the west of the island
Comiso	Regional bus or hire car	Ragusa, Modica and the south-eastern coast

There are also direct long-distance buses from Catania Airport to Taormina and Syracuse. So when travelling to these towns, you do not always need to go via the centre of Catania.

Palermo Airport has its own railway station, Punta Raisi. The train runs directly to Palermo Centrale station, stopping at several points in the city along the way.

For late arrivals, always check the last connection in advance. At less busy airports, public transport may not connect with every flight.

Details of air and ferry connections are summarised in the section ‘How to get to Sicily’.

Local transport

Every major city has its own transport operator, fare structure and tickets. There is no single ticket valid for public transport throughout Sicily.

• Palermo – buses and trams are operated by AMAT. Public transport is a good option, for example, when travelling to Mondello beach.
• Catania – buses are operated by AMTS, whilst the metro is run by Ferrovia Circumetnea. Much of the city centre can be explored on foot.
• Messina – buses and trams are operated by ATM Messina.
• Trapani – city services are provided by ATM Trapani.
• Taormina – buses, car parks and the funicular to the coast are operated by ASM Taormina.
• Syracuse – the historic island of Ortigia is easily explored on foot; city services are operated by SAIS.

Depending on the city, tickets are sold from ticket machines, newsagents, via apps or from the driver. Please check the terms and conditions of the specific operator before boarding.

Ferries and smaller islands

Ferries are a common part of Sicilian transport and, for several archipelagos, they are the only means of connection.

The most important ports are:

• Milazzo – the Aeolian Islands: Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli, Panarea, Salina, Filicudi and Alicudi,
• Trapani and Marsala – the Egadi Islands: Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo,
• Palermo – the island of Ustica,
• Trapani – Pantelleria,
• Porto Empedocle – Lampedusa and Linosa,
• Messina – crossings across the strait to Reggio Calabria and Villa San Giovanni.

High-speed passenger ferries are mainly operated by Liberty Lines. Conventional car ferries are also provided by companies within the Caronte & Tourist group.

During the peak season, we recommend buying a ticket to popular islands in advance. Services may be affected by wind and rough seas, so please check the status of your crossing before departure.

It is generally not worth taking a hire car to the smaller islands. Also check your car hire contract, as transporting a vehicle by ferry may be restricted or completely prohibited.

Places where you should plan your transport in advance

Etna

Public transport to Rifugio Sapienza is very limited and does not allow for a flexible trip. The easiest option is to take a car or join an organised excursion from Catania or Taormina. We provide details in the Etna guide.

San Vito Lo Capo and Zingaro

Buses run to San Vito Lo Capo from Trapani and Palermo, but the service varies depending on the season. A car is much more practical for getting to Macari Beach and the entrances to the Zingaro Nature Reserve.

Erice

There is a road leading to Erice, as well as a cable car from Trapani. Its operation may be suspended due to strong winds or routine maintenance, so please check the cable car’s official website before your trip.

Enna

Long-distance buses stop in the Enna Bassa area as well as closer to the centre. The railway station lies well below the historic town and requires a further journey by local bus. You can find more information in the Enna guide.

Ragusa and Modica

From Catania, a direct coach is usually the most practical option. Between Syracuse, Noto, Modica and Ragusa, compare coach and train timetables, as services are infrequent.

Where to stay without a car

Your choice of accommodation will have a major impact on how easily you can get around Sicily. If you don’t have a car, we recommend staying within walking distance of the railway station or the main coach terminal.

You’ll find a detailed selection of regions, resorts and specific locations in the section on where to stay in Sicily.

In our opinion, the best bases without a car are these:

• Catania – the best transport hub for the east of the island, Mount Etna, Taormina and Syracuse; view accommodation in Catania
• Palermo – the best base for the north and west of the island; view accommodation in Palermo
• Syracuse – ideal for a quieter stay and trips around the south-east; view accommodation in Syracuse
• Trapani – ideal for Erice, San Vito Lo Capo and the Egadi Islands; view accommodation in Trapani
• Cefalù – a good choice for a combination of beach holidays and train trips; view accommodation in Cefalù

View accommodation in Sicily

How to plan a stress-free trip

When travelling by public transport, we find the following approach works well:

1. Choose two or three base locations depending on the parts of the island you wish to visit.
2. First, check the journey times between your bases.
3. For day trips, first find the last return journey.
4. Book long-distance buses and ferries in advance.
5. You can buy tickets for regional trains shortly before your journey.
6. Save your ticket, the location of the stop and the timetable offline as well.
7. On Sundays and public holidays, expect significantly fewer buses.
8. The day before your journey, check for service suspensions, platform changes and any strikes.

For your first trip to Sicily, we’d recommend one of three options:

• The east without a car: Catania, Taormina, Mount Etna on an organised tour, and Syracuse.
• North and west without a car: Palermo, Cefalù, Trapani, Erice and the Egadi Islands.
• A tour of the island: visit Palermo and Catania without a car, and hire a car only for the inland areas, remote beaches and smaller towns.

Public transport in Sicily isn’t perfectly integrated, but it works well if you choose your itinerary carefully. Use the train on the main coastal routes, the bus where it’s quicker or where there’s no rail link, and save the car for places where it will genuinely save you time.