In Hanoi, I’d particularly recommend strolling through the Old Quarter, sampling the local food, visiting cafés and taking an evening trip to Train Street. Add to that a few sights, the area around Hoan Kiem Lake and an early evening at Tran Quoc Pagoda.

What I enjoyed most about the city was the atmosphere of the streets. The city centre is compact, and you can cover a large part of your itinerary on foot. Between stops, allow time for a meal, a sit-down, or a detour down any alleyway that catches your eye.

For an itinerary like this, it’s worth staying right in the centre. If you’re on a tight budget, consider North Hostel N.2, which also offers simple private rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Personally, I was happy with the well-equipped WECOZY Hanoi – Railway Side apartment on Train Street. Bear in mind that it’s close to the railway line. I compare other options in the article ‘Where to stay in Hanoi’.

Wander through the Old Quarter

I’d recommend exploring the Old Quarter right at the start of your stay. You’ll see small shops, eateries with plastic stools, street vendors and the hustle and bustle, which is an experience in itself.

I particularly liked the area around Dong Xuan Market. The market hall itself is just part of the experience. The surrounding streets feel like one big market and are well worth a wander through.

For your first walk, you could combine:

• the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake,
• the small Bach Ma Temple,
• Dong Xuan Market and its surroundings,
• Quan Chuong Gate.

I’d set aside half a day for a walk like this, including stops. The distances themselves are short, but stopping off is part of the Hanoi experience.

The names of many streets recall the traditional trades and goods once sold there. These days, this doesn’t mean you’ll find just one type of merchandise on every street. Hang Ma, for example, is still interesting for its decorations and paper ornaments.

The pavements are often blocked by motorbikes, so you’ll need to be careful when crossing the road. You’ll find practical advice in the chapter on Transport in Hanoi.

Try the street food

Set aside a few separate stops throughout the day for eating in Hanoi.

Some places specialise in just one meal and are only open for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Street food here doesn’t necessarily mean a stall: often it’s a small eatery with a few tables.

To start with, I’d choose from these dishes:

• Phở – a noodle soup, for example with beef or chicken.
• Bún chả – grilled pork with rice noodles, herbs and sauce.
• Bánh mì – a filled baguette with various fillings.
• Bánh cuốn – delicate steamed rice rolls, often filled with meat and mushrooms.
• Chả cá – fish seasoned with turmeric, served with dill and other accompaniments.

Dong Xuan Food Alley, known locally as Ngõ Đồng Xuân, is ideal for sampling a few small dishes. It is a narrow alleyway lined with eateries next to the market. Come for lunch or in the early afternoon; this alley is best visited during the day.

To sample a few dishes in the alley, expect to pay roughly 100,000–150 000 vnd per person. Check the price and portion size before ordering.

Is a guided food tour worth it?

If you don’t fancy choosing places yourself and trying to figure out the menu, a walking tour with tastings might be just the thing. The guide will introduce you to the different dishes, and you’ll get to try several places in a single visit.

For example, a walking food tour of the Old Town lasts around 3–4 hours, depending on the option you choose, and includes several tastings. Before booking, check the language, the number of dishes included and whether hotel pick-up is available. Discuss any dietary restrictions with the organiser in advance.

Stop for a Vietnamese coffee

Sitting in a café is a pleasant part of the itinerary between walks. As well as strong filter coffee, you can also try sweeter varieties:

• Cà phê sữa đá – iced coffee with condensed milk.
• Cà phê trứng – egg coffee with whipped egg yolk cream.
• Coconut coffee – a cold version with a coconut component, sometimes reminiscent of a dessert.
• Cà phê muối – coffee with a salty cream topping.

A specific spot for egg coffee is Café Giang, 39 Nguyen Huu Huan, on the eastern edge of the Old Quarter. On its official website, the company states that this branch is open daily from 7.00 am to 10.00 pm.

I’d choose a café based on its menu and atmosphere. On Train Street, you’re paying a premium just for the location itself.

Experience Train Street after dark

Hanoi Train Street is an extremely touristy attraction. Crowds of people, lights, flashing decorations and cafés crammed in around an active railway line.

And I really enjoyed it.

I’ve been here several times, both during the day and at night, and it’s after dark that the street has a truly special atmosphere. I’d definitely make sure to include it in your itinerary.

I’d go elsewhere for a meal or a coffee, though. Away from the famous alley, you’ll find cheaper places and, in my experience, better ones too.

If you want to see a train pass through, have a look at the separate article for an approximate timetable and the difference between the northern and southern sections of Train Street. Access may be restricted; please respect any current closures and follow the on-site instructions.

Enjoy an evening by the lake and on Beer Street

A stroll around Hoan Kiem

I’d visitHoan Kiem Lake both during the day and in the evening. The promenade is lined with cafés, restaurants and shops. It’s very touristy, but I still enjoyed it there.

On your first visit, walk the entire length of the shore. Allow about 30–40 minutes for the walk itself, but feel free to spend the whole evening there if you fancy a sit-down.

At weekends, the surrounding streets become a pedestrian zone. It’s a more pleasant setting for a stroll than Hanoi’s usual pavements.

Ngoc Son Temple is also situated right by the water. Plan your visit there separately, taking into account its opening hours.

Beer Street, or Ta Hien

For a livelier evening, head to Beer Street on Ta Hien Street, particularly around the junction with Luong Ngoc Quyen.

Expect small stools by the roadside, bars, music and plenty of tourists. To get a taste of the atmosphere, you can simply stroll down the street or sit down for a beer.

• A small glass of bia hoi: approximately 10,000–20 000 vnd.
• Local bottled beer: approximately 25,000– 50 000 vnd.

I’d recommend visiting between 7.00 pm and 10.00 pm. Prices vary depending on the venue and the size of the drink, so have a look at the menu before ordering.

Choose a few sights

Hanoi has some interesting temples and historic sites, but I wouldn’t compare it to Bangkok or Kyoto in terms of the size and grandeur of its temple complexes. Many of the sites are small and can easily be slotted into the rest of your itinerary.

Depending on what interests you, I’d suggest, for example:

• The Temple of Literature for its historic architecture and the pleasant atmosphere of the courtyard. It took me about 20 minutes to walk through it.
• Hoa Lo Prison for its modern history. A quick visit takes 20–30 minutes; if you plan to read the information in detail or use an audio guide, allow 45–60 minutes.
• Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum as a visit to one of the most significant sites in modern-day Vietnam.
• St Joseph’s Cathedral for its monumental façade and freely accessible interior. Be aware of the midday break.

You’ll find a complete selection in the ‘What to See in Hanoi’ guide.

Head to West Lake to watch the sunset

At West Lake, known as Hồ Tây, I’d start at the Tran Quoc Pagoda.

The site itself is really quite small. I’d set aside much more time for a stroll along the water’s edge in the evening light.

It was right here that I experienced one of the most fascinating sunsets ever. The pagoda stands out beautifully in the late afternoon, and for me, this area is one of the most beautiful spots in Hanoi.

You can combine your visit with some local food: there are plenty of eateries to the north of the pagoda. Just don’t expect complete silence. Thanh Nien Road and other roads in the area are busy.

Is it worth cycling around the lake?

There’s a popular cycle route around West Lake, about 17 km long. However, the route also takes you along ordinary roads with traffic. It isn’t a continuous, dedicated cycle path.

I’d choose a bike if you want to explore most of the surrounding area and don’t mind the local traffic. For a short visit to Hanoi, I’d be happy just with a walk around the southern part of the lake and the pagoda.

Do check out the water puppet theatre

The water puppet theatre is a short cultural activity that you can easily fit into your afternoon or evening. It’s also a good option if it rains.

The wooden puppets move across the water’s surface. The puppeteers control them from behind a screen, and the performance is accompanied by traditional music. The individual scenes depict rural life and Vietnamese stories.

The most convenient venue in the city centre is the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, 57B Dinh Tien Hoang, on the north-eastern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake.

• Performance duration: approximately 50 minutes.
• Tickets: 100,000, 150,000 or 200 000 vnd depending on the category.
• Schedule: several performances a day; choose a specific time from the schedule for your chosen day.

Check the theatre’s official website for the current programme and to make a booking. You can also buy tickets at the box office. If you’d like to attend at a specific time in the evening, I’d recommend booking in advance.

Learn how to cook Vietnamese food

I’d recommend a cookery course if you’re staying for a longer period or as a main activity for half a day. Beginners’ courses combine a visit to the market, preparing several dishes and sharing a meal together.

One specific example is Rose Kitchen. On its website, the school quotes a price of45 usd per adult for a standard group course. It may charge a surcharge during public holidays.

Its menu includes, for example, bún chả, spring rolls, banana flower salad and egg coffee. Specific programmes and special offers may vary. Not every course automatically teaches you how to make phở.

When making your choice, please check:

• the actual menu and whether it can be adapted to suit your dietary requirements,
• the language of instruction,
• the duration of the programme and whether a visit to the market is included,
• transport to and from your hotel,
• 👉 View dates and prices for the Rose Kitchen course on GetYourGuide.

Explore the markets and buy souvenirs

I’d combine shopping in Hanoi with a stroll. Alongside market stalls and traditional shops, you’ll also find modern retail outlets and smaller designer boutiques.

You can haggle at the markets, but in shops with fixed prices, you should expect to pay the asking price. A low price alone says nothing about the material or quality of the product.

Dong Xuan and the weekend night market

For a day trip, I’d choose Dong Xuan Market and the surrounding streets. You’ll find plenty of clothes, textiles and other goods there. I particularly liked the atmosphere of the whole area.

On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings, there’s also a night market in the streets between Hang Dao and Dong Xuan. It’s a great place to browse the stalls selling clothes, trinkets and souvenirs.

The daytime market, the weekend night market and the neighbouring Dong Xuan Food Alley are three distinct places to visit. I’d go to the small food alley during the day for a bite to eat, and to the night market in the evening.

Quang Ba Flower Market

For those interested in photography and the hustle and bustle of wholesale trade, another option is the Quang Ba Flower Market on Au Co Street, near the north-eastern part of West Lake.

The market is mainly open at night and in the early hours of the morning. A government report states that it is usually open from 9.00 pm to 7.00 am, with the busiest wholesale trading taking place between 1.00 am and 3.00 am, and quieter sales to individual customers from 4.00 am to 5.00 am.

I would only plan a visit if you’re interested in this sort of atmosphere and don’t mind travelling at night. For a first short stay, I’d recommend the daytime market in the city centre.

Take a stroll across Long Bien Bridge

Long Bien Bridge is a good place to continue your walk from Dong Xuan or the Quan Chuong Gate.

The steel structure, the railway, the motorbikes and the view of the Red River create a different atmosphere to the narrow streets of the Old Quarter.

For a shorter visit, simply walk to the other side of the river and back. You don’t need to cross the whole bridge. Do bear in mind, however, that the pavements are narrow and there is regular traffic.

Head out on a trip outside Hanoi

If you’d like to explore the surrounding countryside as well, add an extra day or a few nights to your stay. I wouldn’t include trips outside the city in the two days set aside for Hanoi itself.

Ninh Binh for a full day

Ninh Binh offers limestone karst formations, boat trips on small boats and scenic viewpoints. You can set off from Hanoi on an organised full-day trip here.

Itineraries often combine, for example, Hoa Lu, a boat trip in Tam Coc or Trang An, and the Hang Mua viewpoint. On a day trip, choose between Tam Coc and Trang An depending on the specific itinerary. The name of the tour does not necessarily mean that you will visit both places.

• 👉 View the itinerary and price of the trip to Ninh Binh departing from Hanoi.

Before booking, check the pick-up point, included admissions and the total duration. Allow a full day, including several hours’ travel time.

If you’d like more time to enjoy the scenery and explore at your own pace, consider staying overnight in the Ninh Binh area.

Ha Long Bay

Another option is a cruise in Ha Long Bay. Both day trips and overnight cruises are available.

For a more leisurely exploration, I’d opt for at least one night. The one-day option from Hanoi means a significant part of the itinerary is spent travelling there and back.

• 👉 Compare offers for trips to Ha Long Bay

When planning a trip to the north of the country, it’s also worth checking the weather forecast for Vietnam.

How much time should you allow for Hanoi?

For a first visit, I’d set aside two full days. You’ll have time to explore the city centre, choose a few sights, visit Train Street and pop over to West Lake.

The third day is ideal for a cookery class, more museums or a more leisurely stroll around the city.

If it rains, I’d move the itinerary to cafés, the water puppet theatre, Hoa Lo Prison or a cookery class. However, part of the prison tour and the walk to the market during the cookery class may still take place outdoors.

If you’re continuing your journey overland from Hanoi, do read about my experience on the overnight train to Da Nang. I’d plan Da Nang itself as the next stop on your trip.

What did you enjoy most in Hanoi? Add a tip in the comments for a restaurant, café or experience that was well worth your time there.