If you want to discover the real Madeira and its unspoilt natural landscape, a hike along the Caldeirão Verde levada – which links up with the shorter Caldeirão do Inferno levada – is an absolute must.

You can look forward to a trek through the magical landscape of the northern slopes of Madeira’s highest mountains, staying at altitudes between 800 and 1,220 metres throughout.

The trail also runs alongside an irrigation channel throughout; it is quite wide at first, but becomes very narrow in places. There are no particularly dangerous sections on the route, buta head torch or torch is essential, as the levada passes through several short tunnels.

There is an entry fee for the route, which 4,50 eur and must be booked online atsimplifica.madeira.gov.pt.

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The trail winds through dense mixed and native laurel forests, and at the end of the route you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking natural ‘cauldrons’ – circular valleys with almost vertical rock faces, into which only narrow gorges with levadas lead, and where small waterfalls cascade down to form idyllic pools. Most tourists end their trip at the first of the ‘cauldrons’ –Caldeirão Verde.

However, it would be a mistake to give up and not carry on toCaldeirão do Inferno, which is even more magical, partly because so few tourists make it there.

The path between these two calderas is, however, a little more challenging and less well signposted. In particular, after a short climb up some steps, there is a somewhat confusing junction with three tunnels. The tunnel on the left leads nowhere; going straight ahead would take you through a 2.5 km-long tunnel beneath Madeira’s highest mountain; and on the right is a short tunnel leading directly to Caldeirão do Inferno.

How to get there

Most guidebooks and maps indicate the start of the route in the hamlet of Pico das Pedras, on the road leading to the highest mountain, Pico Ruivo.

However, you’ll needlessly tire yourself out on a 3.5 km stretch of rather uninspiring terrain. It’s better to start atCasa dasQueimadas, a beautiful thatched-roof farmhouse with a small car park nearby.

The earlier in the morning you arrive here, the better your chances of finding a convenient parking space. A tarmac road leads here from the town of Santana, but it is not very well signposted. You should therefore study the map of the route from Santana to the car park at Casa das Queimadas carefully before setting off.

Route details

Firstly, make sure you have a torch or headlamp. You’ll be passing through several short, unlit tunnels (the height is always over 2.5 metres, and there’s plenty of room to pass oncoming walkers comfortably).

Secondly, bear in mind that during the wetter months the levada may be slightly swollen, meaning you’ll have to wade through some sections – so waterproof boots are highly recommended.

The Casa das Queimadas – Caldeirão Verde section

• Distance – 6 km one way
• Time – approx. 2 hours there + 2 hours back
• Difficulty – moderate (mainly due to the longer distance)
• Route map

Caldeirão Verde – Caldeirão do Inferno section

• Distance – 2.5 km one way
• Time – approx. 1 hour there + 1 hour back
• Difficulty – high (risk of exhaustion from the previous long route)
• Route map

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