Holbox
Holbox is a narrow island off the northern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula , known for its shallow waters, long sandy beaches, mangroves, bioluminescence and whale shark watching trips.
The island forms part of the Yum Balam protected area, and instead of cars, people mainly get around by bicycle and golf buggies.
Geographically, Holbox is not located in the state of Yucatán, but in the neighbouring state of Quintana Roo. Nevertheless, we have included it in this guide as it naturally combines well with Valladolid and Río Lagartos.
We did not visit Holbox ourselves during our trip, so we are not reviewing it based on our own experience.
However, we read through dozens of forums before our trip, so we’ll base our assessment on those at least.
💬 Has anyone been to Holbox? What did you think of it?
Is Holbox worth a visit?
Holbox is particularly suitable for travellers looking for a quieter beach holiday, a very laid-back atmosphere, smaller boutique hotels and outdoor activities.
The ideal length of stay is 2 to 3 nights. A single night would mean spending too much time travelling, given the journey via Chiquilá and the ferry crossing.
Conversely, we wouldn’t recommend the island as a day trip from Cancún, Playa del Carmen or Tulum.
The journey in one direction takes several hours, leaving only a short part of the day to spend on Holbox itself.
Don’t expect the same swimming experience on Holbox as you would on the best beaches of the Riviera Maya.
The sea here is very shallow and calm, but the water isn’t always perfectly clear. The main reason to visit is the combination of beaches, nature, sunsets and the laid-back island atmosphere.
Beaches on Holbox
Playa Holbox
The main beach stretches along the northern coast near the town of Holbox. This is where you’ll find the greatest number of restaurants, beach bars, sun loungers and hotels.
The area around the main beach is the most convenient for your first stay. You’ll be close to the centre, the harbour and the restaurants, and you won’t have to rely on golf buggies.
Punta Mosquito
The eastern part of the island, towards Punta Mosquito, is quieter and less built-up.
The area is known for its shallow sandy shoals and the presence of waterbirds such as pelicans and flamingos.
Part of the area is strictly protected and access to Punta Mosquito itself is prohibited. You may only walk to the permitted sections of the coast and must always follow the signs and instructions of the reserve rangers.
At low tide, long sandbanks appear in the sea, but their accessibility depends on the current water level.
Punta Cocos
Punta Cocos lies at the western end of the built-up area of Holbox and is particularly popular at sunset. The beach is quieter than the centre, and in the evening, bioluminescence tours are organised in the surrounding area.
You can get here from the centre on foot in about 30 to 40 minutes, or by bike or golf taxi.
Things to do on Holbox
Whale shark watching
The most famous activity on Holbox is a whale shark watching trip. The season usually runs from May to September, with the best chances of sightings in July and August.
The trips last around 7 to 8 hours and are among the most expensive activities on the island. Expect to pay around 4 000 mxn per person. The trip usually includes a boat ride to see the sharks, short supervised swims, snorkelling at Cabo Catoche and a simple lunch.
There is no guarantee of seeing or swimming with whale sharks. During the peak season, we recommend booking your trip in advance and choosing an operator that runs small groups and holds the necessary permits.
Bioluminescence
In the darker parts of the coast, you can see glowing plankton as the water moves. Trips usually head to the area around Punta Cocos or to the eastern part of the island and combine swimming, stargazing or kayaking.
Visibility depends on the amount of plankton, the weather and the moonlight. The best conditions are usually around the new moon, whilst the effect can be significantly weaker during a full moon.
Trip to the Three Islands
A shorter boat trip usually includes Isla Pájaros, Isla Pasión and the Yalahau freshwater spring. It is particularly suitable outside the whale shark season or for travellers who do not wish to spend the whole day on a boat.
The trip takes approximately 3 to 4 hours. Bear in mind, however, that many boats visit these sites and the trip does not always feel as secluded as the promotional photos suggest.
Kayaking in the mangroves
A quieter alternative to boat trips is a morning or evening kayak trip along the mangroves of the Yum Balam Reserve. You’ll have the best chance of spotting birds early in the morning, whilst trips at sunset are more pleasant due to the cooler temperatures.
Holbox Town Centre
The town itself is small and can easily be explored on foot within an hour. The streets are adorned with colourful murals, and around the main square you’ll find restaurants, bars, shops and stalls selling local food.
Holbox is famous for its restaurants serving fish, seafood and lobster pizza. Prices are higher than in Valladolid or Mérida due to the island’s location.
Where to stay on Holbox
For your first visit, we recommend staying near the centre and the main beach. You’ll be within walking distance of restaurants, the marina and the departure points for boat trips.
Hotels towards Punta Mosquito offer quieter beaches, but are further from the centre. The western part near Punta Cocos is ideal for a romantic and peaceful stay, but do bear in mind that you’ll need to take the golf taxi more often.
We haven’t tried the hotels ourselves, but depending on location and the type of stay, the following options make particular sense:
- Hotel Para Ti – Adults Only is one of the more affordable, high-quality hotels; it has a swimming pool and is just a few minutes’ walk from both the centre and the beach. It isn’t right by the sea, but it offers a very convenient location.
- Villas HM Palapas del Maris situated right on the main beach and about a 10-minute walk from the centre. It’s a good choice if you want to combine a beach hotel with easy access to restaurants and excursions.
- Nômade Temple Holbox is a more luxurious designer hotel right on the beach in the quiet western part of the island, near Punta Cocos. It’s ideal for a relaxing break, but the town centre is about a 25-minute walk away.
When choosing a hotel, check whether the price includes breakfast, sun loungers and, where applicable, access to the beach club. With cheaper hotels, beach facilities may not be included in your stay.
How to get to Holbox
You always travel to the island via the port of Chiquilá. You can reach Chiquilá by bus, minivan or car, and then continue by ferry.
By bus to Chiquilá
Direct buses and minibuses run mainly from Cancún, Cancún Airport, Playa del Carmen and Valladolid. There are also connections from Mérida, but the journey takes considerably longer.
Approximate journey times:
- Cancún city centre: approximately 2.5 hours,
- Cancún Airport: approximately 2.5 hours,
- Valladolid: approximately 2 to 3 hours,
- Playa del Carmen: approximately 3 hours,
- Tulum: approximately 3.5 hours,
- Mérida: approximately 5 to 6 hours.
There are a limited number of direct services from Valladolid and Mérida, so please check the timetable in advance. The bus station in Chiquilá is just a few minutes’ walk from the ferry.
The buses are operated by ADO.
Travelling to Chiquilá by car
You can only drive a hire car as far as Chiquilá. Tourist cars are not allowed on Holbox, so you’ll need to leave yours at one of the private car parks near the harbour.
Parking costs around 150 mxn for 24 hours. Always confirm the total price before parking, take a receipt and do not leave any valuables in plain sight inside the car.
The journey by car takes approximately 2.5 hours from Cancún, 2 hours from Valladolid and 3.5 hours from Mérida.
If you’re planning to visit Holbox as part of a longer trip around Yucatán, a car is handy for the rest of your itinerary, even if it remains parked whilst you’re on the island.
Compare car hire prices at Cancún Airport
Chiquilá–Holbox ferry
Holbox Express and 9 Hermanos operate the ferry service between Chiquilá and Holbox. Their ferries alternate, so during the day there is a ferry departing approximately every 30 minutes.
The crossing takes about 20 to 25 minutes and a one-way ticket for an adult costs 330 mxn.
Both companies offer virtually the same service, so there’s no point in waiting for a specific operator. Just buy a ticket for the next available departure.
The first boats leave Chiquilá at around 6.00 am and the last at approximately 9.30 pm. Check the current timetable on the Holbox Express and 9 Hermanos websites.
Don’t plan a tight connection from a bus or aeroplane to catch the last ferry. If you miss it, you’ll have to spend the night in Chiquilá.
Be aware of the time difference
Holbox and Chiquilá are located in the state of Quintana Roo, which is one hour ahead of the state of Yucatán all year round.
When travelling from Valladolid, Mérida or Río Lagartos, you should therefore set your watch forward by one hour. Bus and ferry timetables show the local time at the point of departure. When travelling from Cancún, Playa del Carmen or Tulum, the time remains the same.
Transport on Holbox
You can easily walk around the centre and the main beach. Golf taxis run from the ferry terminal to the hotels, which are particularly handy if you have luggage or are staying at Punta Cocos or Punta Mosquito.
On the island, you can hire a bicycle or a whole golf buggy. A buggy is better value for a few hours rather than for your entire stay. You won’t need it most of the time in the centre, and after heavy rain, the unpaved streets can be flooded or very muddy.
Take insect repellent with you for walks outside the town centre. There tend to be significantly more mosquitoes around the mangroves, Punta Mosquito and Punta Cocos, particularly after rain.
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