Mahahual
Mahahual is a small seaside town on the Costa Maya, about a 1.5-hour drive from Bacalar. Yet it has two completely different sides to it.
When several cruise ships are moored in the nearby port of Puerto Costa Maya, the promenade fills with passengers, vendors and beach clubs.
As soon as the ships set sail, Mahahual quickly transforms into a sleepy Caribbean town with a few bars, restaurants and hotels along the beach.
Mahahual isn’t a place worth travelling halfway across Mexico for. However, it makes perfect sense as a short stopover on a trip along the southern coast, a complement to Bacalar or a base for snorkelling and diving.
- Accommodation: compare hotels in Mahahual
Is Mahahual worth a visit?
If you’re deciding between Mahahual and Bacalar, we consider Bacalar to be the more interesting and unique destination.
We’d recommend adding Mahahual to your itinerary, particularly if you want to combine a freshwater lagoon with a Caribbean beach and snorkelling on a coral reef.
We particularly recommend Mahahual:
- for 1 night during a road trip through the southern Mexican Caribbean
- for 2 nights, if you’re planning to go snorkelling or diving
- to travellers looking for a quieter alternative to Tulum and Playa del Carmen
- as a seaside stopover whilst visiting Bacalar
On the other hand, we’d skip Mahahual:
- during a short first visit to Mexico, when you only have a few days
- as a day trip from Tulum, as the journey takes too long
- if you’re travelling in the summer solely for a pristine Caribbean beach
- if you’ve already allowed enough time in your itinerary for the beaches in Tulum or Playa del Carmen
One full day is enough to explore the promenade, go for a swim and take a short snorkelling trip. However, you’ll only get to experience Mahahual in the evening, without the cruise ship passengers, if you stay overnight at least once.
Mahahual and the Port of Costa Maya
Puerto Costa Maya is not the historic centre of Mahahual, but a modern terminal built for large cruise ships.
It is situated approximately 3 to 5 km north of the town and features shops, restaurants, a swimming pool and an entertainment complex intended mainly for cruise ship passengers.
Independent travellers have little reason to visit the port. For the beach, restaurants and a more pleasant atmosphere, head straight to the Malecón in the centre of Mahahual.
The number of cruise ships has a significant impact on the town’s atmosphere. On days when there are two or more ships, the beach clubs tend to be packed, there are more street vendors, and prices may be higher. The quietest days are those with no ships or just one smaller ship.
We therefore recommend checking the current cruise ship schedule for Costa Maya before your visit. Even on a busy day, Mahahual usually calms down considerably in the late afternoon once the passengers have returned to the port.
The beach and the Malecón promenade
Playa Mahahual lies directly along the Malecon pedestrian promenade. Thanks to the nearby coral reef, the water here is usually quite shallow and calm, making it suitable even for less experienced swimmers.
Don’t expect a long, wide and deserted beach, though. The central strip of sand is narrow in places; small boats are moored here, and a large part of the space is taken up by sun loungers belonging to restaurants and beach clubs.
The beach itself is public, but the sun loungers and parasols usually belong to individual establishments.
Before settling down, check whether their use is free with your order, whether there is a minimum spend requirement, or whether you need to buy an all-day pass. Ask for the final price to be confirmed in Mexican pesos.
When cruise ships are in port, expect a fairly aggressive sales pitch for massages, excursions, souvenirs and refreshments. If this sort of attention bothers you, choose accommodation south of the centre or don’t go to the beach until the afternoon.
Things to do in Mahahual
Snorkelling on the coral reef
The coral reef lies just off the coast, and short snorkelling trips are one of the main reasons to stop off in Mahahual. Boats set off directly from the beach, and once there you can see corals, tropical fish, stingrays and, with a bit of luck, sea turtles too.
Almost all beach clubs and diving centres offer these trips. Before paying, check the duration of the trip, the group size, equipment hire and any entry fees for the protected area.
Diving and Banco Chinchorro
More experienced divers can head to the Banco Chinchorro Biosphere Reserve, one of Mexico’s most significant coral reef systems. The area is renowned for its well-preserved reefs, shipwrecks and abundant marine life.
Banco Chinchorro lies dozens of kilometres off the coast. It is therefore not a short trip, but usually a full-day cruise, depending on the weather and sea conditions. Book your trip only with an authorised diving centre and allow for some extra time in your itinerary in case the trip is cancelled.
The Mayan ruins of Chacchoben
The archaeological site of Chacchoben is about an hour’s drive from Mahahual. The ruins are less well-known than Chichén Itzá or Tulum and are visited by a large number of cruise ship passengers.
Chacchoben is particularly worth visiting if you’re travelling by car through the southern part of Quintana Roo. If you’re already planning to visit several other Mayan sites, we don’t consider it a reason to make a separate trip to Mahahual.
Sargassum in Mahahual
Sargassum seaweed is Mahahual’s biggest drawback. The coastline is exposed to the Caribbean Sea, and when there is a heavy influx of seaweed, the situation here can be worse than on more sheltered beaches.
The greatest risk is usually from around April to October, most frequently from May to September. The best chance of a clear beach is from November to March, but even during this period, sea conditions cannot be guaranteed in advance.
Beach clubs clear away the seaweed, and protective barriers have been installed in some places. However, when there is a large amount of seaweed, the water can become cloudy and brown, and an unpleasant odour may appear on the shore.
If you’re travelling in the summer, don’t plan your trip to Mahahual solely for the beach. A good alternative is to combine your visit with a trip to Bacalar, whose freshwater lagoon is not affected by sargassum.
Where to stay in Mahahual
For a stay of 1 to 2 nights, we recommend the centre around the Malecón promenade. You can walk to the beach, restaurants and the cruise ship departure points, so you won’t need a car or a taxi.
Hotels a few kilometres south of the town offer more peace and quiet and a less crowded coastline, but without a car you’ll be reliant on taxis or the hotel restaurant. Therefore, always check the hotel’s actual location on a map before booking.
Practical options based on location, facilities and guest reviews include:
- Noah Beach Hotel & Suites for a more comfortable stay right by the beach in the town centre
- Hotel Boutique Pachamama, a smaller hotel just a few steps from the beach
- 40 Cañones for classic accommodation right on the Malecón
- Eco Cabañas Bluekay for a simpler and usually cheaper stay by the sea
If you’re travelling without a car, don’t choose accommodation based on its proximity to the port of Puerto Costa Maya. For the average visitor, it’s much more practical to stay right in Mahahual.
How to get to Mahahual
By car
A hire car is by far the most convenient way to visit Mahahual. It allows you to combine your stay with a visit to Bacalar, stop off at the Chacchoben ruins and, if you wish, continue further along the southern coast.
Approximate journey times:
- Bacalar: 113 km and approximately 1 hour 30 minutes
- Tulum: approximately 220 km and 2 hours 45 minutes to 3 hours
- Cancún: approximately 350 km and 4 hours 30 minutes to 5 hours
The road is tarmac and there are no tolls on the usual route. Before a longer journey, we recommend filling up with petrol in Bacalar or Tulum. You can find details in the section on car hire in the Riviera Maya.
By bus and colectivos
There is a direct bus service to Mahahual, but it runs much less frequently than between the main resorts on the Riviera Maya.
From Tulum, there is usually around one direct bus a day. The journey takes approximately 2 hours 40 minutes to 3 hours, and a one-way fare is around 550 mxn. Please check the latest timetable directly on the ADO website.
There are usually several Caribe buses or local shared minibuses running between Bacalar and Mahahual. Allow for a journey time of approximately 1 hour 45 minutes and a fare of around 80 to 190 mxn. Timetables for local minibuses change frequently and may not be available online. Fares are usually paid in cash in Mexican pesos.
Buses arrive at the Mahahual Centro terminal, from where you can continue on foot or take a short taxi ride to the Malecón.
When travelling from Cancún, you should usually expect to change buses in Tulum, Bacalar or Chetumal. Due to the infrequent service, we recommend buying tickets in advance and not planning tight connections. We describe further options in the chapter on transport around the Riviera Maya.
Getting around Mahahual
You can easily walk through the centre of Mahahual and along the entire Malecón promenade. For a typical stay in the town itself, you won’t need any transport.
You’ll need a taxi to reach more remote hotels, the southern beaches or the port of Costa Maya. Taximeters are not commonly used, so agree on the fare before getting in.
Due to the distance, the heat and the busier access road, the port of Costa Maya is not a suitable destination for a walk from Mahahual. If you really need to go there, take a taxi.
If travelling by car, park in the streets behind the Malecón or in the hotel car park. Do not leave valuables in plain sight in the boot.
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