We spent our first three nights in Mexico City at the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México. We didn’t choose the hotel at random.

First thing in the morning, we had a hot-air balloon ride over Teotihuacán, followed a day later by a full-day trip to Tolantong. In both cases, the hotel’s location played an important role.

At the same time, as it was our first visit to Mexico City, we wanted to be right in the historic centre, from where most of the main sights are literally just a few minutes’ walk away.

Check current prices at Gran Hotel CDMX

I had high expectations of the hotel.

When you book one of the city’s most famous hotels, right on the Zócalo, it’s easy to get the impression that this will be one of the best hotel experiences in Mexico.

In some respects, it exceeded my expectations. In others, it didn’t.

How much did we pay?

I left the booking until quite the last minute – I booked the hotel aboutthree weeks before the trip.

That’s partly why the price was a bit higher than usual.

For three nights without breakfast in a double room, we paid 773 usd, which is quite a high price by Mexico City standards.

I booked the hotel via booking.com, where the price was the lowest.

A chaotic arrival by Uber

We arrived at Mexico City Airport around eight in the evening and headed straight to the hotel by Uber.

I enter the address into the app, see on the map that the location is somewhere near Zócalo Square, book the ride and pay. I’m tired and don’t check it properly.

The Uber drops us off about four blocks from the hotel. It’s 9.30 pm; it’s our first time in Mexico City and we don’t yet know exactly what the safety situation is like here.

In the end, we walk there with our suitcases and everything goes smoothly, but the first impression isn’t great. Mainly because of my mistake.

It was only later that I realised the sat-nav often fails to pinpoint the correct entrance to the building, as it’s not possible to drive right up to the hotel.

In the Uber app, I recommend manually entering the location as the junction of C. de la Palma and 16 de Septiembre (see map). From there, it’s about 150 metres to the hotel.

The second surprise came when I saw the building itself.

From the outside, the hotel looks rather unassuming. If I hadn’t known it was one of the most famous hotels in Mexico City, I’d probably have walked right past it without giving it a second thought.

The main entrance isn’t from the Zócalo square, but from the side street, 16 de Septiembre.

But then the doors opened.

This is what the hotel is famous for

I’ve had the chance to stay in many beautiful hotels all over the world.

Even so, I would go so far as to say that the lobby of the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México is one of the most impressive I have ever seen.

The centrepiece is a huge, multi-storey atrium topped by a magnificent stained-glass ceiling.

The atmosphere is enhanced by historic lifts, ornate balconies and architecture reminiscent of the era when the hotel was a symbol of luxury for the city’s wealthiest visitors.

After checking in, we stand there for a few more minutes, looking around.

In my opinion, it is precisely because of this space that many guests book this hotel.

And that’s exactly why we booked it too.

In the lobby, you can also take a ride on two historic lifts dating from 1908 – they are among the oldest in the whole of Mexico.

However, these lifts are operated by a porter, so if you’d like a ride, you must always ask at reception.

Otherwise, standard modern lifts are, of course, also available.

When we finally got to our room, we were delighted by a little treat – two small cakes and my name written in chocolate on a plate.

The biggest misconception: Not all rooms have a view of the Zócalo

Another mistake on my part.

I automatically assumed that a hotel which advertises itself on Booking.com under the name Gran Hotel Ciudad de México Zócalo View would have a view of the famous square from practically every room.

It doesn’t.

Our room faced out onto an ordinary city street.

In reality, only a few rooms on each floor have a direct view of the square, and they always come with a hefty surcharge.

It wasn’t a disappointment as such, but if you’re choosing a hotel mainly for the view, be sure to check the specific room category when booking.

The view of the Zócalo is one of the main reasons why people pay a higher price for this hotel.

Booking a hotel for the view and then being disappointed? It’s not the first time this has happened to me – see my stay at the Indigo Shibuya hotel in Tokyo. 😅

What’s the room actually like?

If you’re expecting a second Plaza Hotel in New York, you might be a bit disappointed.

That’s exactly how I felt about the room.

It looks luxurious in the photos. In reality, you can tell it’s seen better days, and some of the features look a bit dated.

But that doesn’t mean it’s a bad room.

On the contrary.

The room was spacious, comfortable and very well maintained. The bed was comfortable, the housekeeping was impeccable throughout our stay, and the facilities were in keeping with the hotel’s category.

On arrival, a small welcome gift in the form of some sweets was waiting for us.

Practical information about the room

In the room, we had:

• a capsule coffee machine
• a fridge (but not stocked)
• a safe
• bathrobes and slippers
• hairdryer
• ironing board and iron
• free water (topped up regularly – in the room and bathroom)
• laundry bag (though the prices are quite high – for example, around 250 mxn for washing a T-shirt)

The bathroom was surprisingly large and looked more modern than the room itself.

I was pleased with the amenity kit, which included two small bottles of mouthwash. This is particularly pleasant and refreshing when travelling.

I appreciate the good blackout curtains, but the soundproofing against outside noise is extremely poor – you could hear all the noise from the street. Fortunately, it’s quite peaceful and quiet here after 9.30 pm.

Why the Gran Hotel in particular?

Of course, the main reason was to stay in an iconic hotel with a magnificent lobby.

But even more important was the hotel’s location right in the historic centre.

On our first morning, we set off on a hot-air balloon ride over Teotihuacán.

I thought it would be more practical to stay in a hotel relatively close to the airport (certainly closer than the Roma Norte, Condesa or Polanco neighbourhoods, which are generally better) and I also reckoned that Uber would be more readily available in the historic centre.

In the end, I decided to book an Uber in advance for 4.30 am anyway. The car arrived right on time, but we later found out that there’s no problem booking an Uber anywhere in the city.

• 👉 Our experience with transport in CDMX

A day later, we had a trip to Tolantong lined up. We met at 5.30 am at Hostel Amigo, from where a number of organised tours depart.

That’s precisely why we chose the Gran Hotel for the first part of our stay.

It took us less than ten minutes to walk there from the hotel, so we didn’t have to worry about an early morning Uber or complicated journeys across the whole city.

If you’re planning similar trips with very early departures, the historic centre is a surprisingly practical base.

Is it worth paying extra for breakfast?

We only bought breakfast once during our stay.

For the first two nights, we got up very early, so breakfast wouldn’t have been available anyway.

I must admit I didn’t expect much from it.

At around 370 pesos per person, it’s not exactly cheap for Mexico City, and I was expecting something along the lines of those older hotel buffets that often rely mainly on their location.

I’d had a similar breakfast with a ‘90s vibe’ at the Hotel Forum in Rome, for example, a couple of weeks before my trip to Mexico.

I was wrong about this one.

The selection was very good, and I particularly appreciated the inclusion of local Mexican specialities alongside the classic international fare.

The ones I enjoyed most were:

• tamales
• freshly made tacos (at the egg station near the restaurant entrance)
• delicious fresh juices
• café de olla (very sweet, spiced coffee)

But the restaurant itself made an even greater impression.

You have breakfast with a direct view of the Zócalo, which is an experience you simply can’t get in an ordinary café. So I got my view after all!

If I were to return to the hotel, I’d treat myself to breakfast there at least once during my stay.

As breakfast wasn’t included in our booking, we paid in the usual way, just like in any ordinary restaurant, directly to the waiter by card or in cash.

Breakfast usually costs 495 mxn, but hotel guests get a discount and we paid 370 mxn per person.

What services does the hotel offer?

We only made use of some of the services during our stay.

24/7 lounge

The hotel has a small lounge which is open round the clock.

It’s located downstairs in the lobby and is fairly basic. I’d describe it more as an extended minibar included in the price. Which is actually quite nice.

What can you find there?

• table football
• comfortable sofas
• water from a barrel
• cans in the fridge (various types of soft drinks)
• apples and other fruit
• biscuits and small cakes
• small sandwiches

Nice for a quick snack on returning to the hotel, but certainly not a reason to book the hotel.

Fitness centre

Very small, but perfectly adequate for a short workout.

If you’re planning to exercise every day during your stay, it will probably meet your needs without any problems.

Restaurant

We didn’t end up trying dinner here.

We found the prices to be significantly higher than at comparable establishments in the area, and the menu didn’t particularly catch our eye.

I was also surprised that there were practically no cocktails on the menu, which I wouldn’t have expected at all from a hotel of this category.

What are you actually paying for?

The price on 770 usd is quite high. For that, you can find more luxurious 5* hotels in Mexico City.

Check the current prices at Gran Hotel CDMX

However, I don’t think you’re paying for the best room in town.

Nor for the best cuisine.

Nor for the most luxurious service.

You’re paying primarily for three things:

• its location right on the Zócalo
• a historic building
• a unique atrium and atmosphere

If these are the very reasons for your visit, the price starts to make much more sense.

Practical assessment

Area	Rating
Location	10/10
Atmosphere of the building	10/10
Room	7/10
Bathroom	9/10
Breakfast	8/10
Services	5/10
Value for money	6/10

Would I book this hotel again? Cheaper alternatives in the area

Probably not.

The hotel isn’t bad, but it’s expensive, and you can easily see into the lobby for free from the street (it’s accessible even to ordinary passers-by).

After all, you can even have breakfast there even if you’re not a guest at the hotel.

If I wanted to stay in the historic centre, I’d be more likely to choose these hotels:

• Best Western Majestic ****– for the best value for money
• Mexico City Hostel– for the lowest price (shared bathroom)

After three nights, we moved to the NH Collection Reforma, from where it’s much easier to explore the restaurants, bars and modern side of Mexico City.