In Iceland, we soon stopped worrying about whether the forecast showed 9 or 12 °C. The wind, rain and the speed at which the weather changes are far more important. Even 12 °C in summer can be pleasant, but it can also be quite cold.

In summer, temperatures on the coast usually range between 10 and 15 °C. In winter, they hover around zero in the south, whilst the north and inland areas are colder.

However, the weather is no reason to give Iceland a miss. You just need to choose the right time of year and not pack your itinerary so tightly that a single windstorm throws it off course.

In Iceland, the sun doesn’t stay in the sky for very long in winter. On the other hand, you can see the Northern Lights, which are commonly visible from October to March. You can read tips on how to spot them in the chapter:

• The Northern Lights in Iceland

At the start of summer, on the other hand, you can watch the midnight sun rise and set for what seems like an endless time.

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Wind is more important than temperature

Temperatures in Iceland aren’t as extreme as the island’s location might suggest. The climate is tempered by the Gulf Stream, and in Reykjavík, temperatures often hover around zero even in winter.

However, it often feels much colder. The combination of wind, rain and humidity can make even an otherwise quite warm day unpleasant. When packing, therefore, keep an eye not only on the temperature, but especially on the wind and rainfall.

In our opinion, a good-quality waterproof jacket is better than a very warm one that gets soaked quickly.

We’d leave the umbrella at home. It’s practically useless in strong winds.

The south-west vs. the rest of the island

Iceland can be divided into three parts according to climate type.

• The south-west –thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream, winters here are milder, snow cover is thinner and summers are the warmest on the whole island; on rare occasions, temperatures can even exceed 19 °C. It rains frequently here, though mostly in the form of showers. Winter temperatures usually hover around 0 °C. The sunniest areas are the very south of the island (Vík í Mýrdal) and also theVestmannaeyjar archipelago.
• The centre (the Icelandic Highlands) –a harsh climate characterised by mountains and volcanoes reaching heights of 1,000 to 2,000 metres, with heavy snowfall in winter and melting glaciers in summer. Central Iceland is usually completely inaccessible and cut off from the rest of the world throughout the winter; summer is short and generally lasts from June to mid-September.
• North and East –the climate on the north and east coasts is much milder than in the centre of the island, but harsher than in the south and west. Winter temperatures are bitterly cold and can drop as low as -25 °C; summers are cool and short.

Where to check the forecast and road conditions

A standard mobile app isn’t enough in Iceland. Before any long journey, we check three local sources:

• en.vedur.is – the official forecast, wind, rainfall and weather warnings
• SafeTravel.is – safety advisories and current risks
• umferdin.is – road conditions, closures and the status of individual roads

Treat the forecast for the next few days as a rough guide. It’s essential to check in the evening and again in the morning before setting off. Google Maps may show a route along a road that is closed or currently impassable.

If you’re not confident about driving in winter conditions, it makes more sense to book an organised trip from Reykjavík than to hire a large car and hope the weather holds.

What to pack for Iceland

When packing for Iceland, dress in layers that can be quickly added or removed throughout the day. This applies even in summer.

• a waterproof and windproof jacket
• waterproof trousers
• a fleece or woollen jumper
• a functional base layer
• sturdy waterproof boots
• a hat and light gloves, even in summer
• warmer gloves and socks in winter
• swimwear in any season (mainly for the geothermal spas)
• a sleep mask for light summer nights

Ordinary trainers are fine for use in town, but they’ll get soaked quickly at waterfalls, on muddy trails and in the rain.

In winter, crampons are also useful, but you should only venture onto a glacier or into a glacial cave with a guide and the required equipment.

Iceland throughout the year

The sunrise and sunset times listed below are approximate and can vary by up to half an hour between the northern and southern parts of Iceland.

Weather in January

January is the coldest month of the year, with average temperatures ranging from -3 °C to 3 °C in the south of the island and from -6 °C to 1 °C in the north and east. Strong winds blow, making it feel much colder; heavy snowfall is common in the mountains; in the south-west, snow cover regularly persists above 500 metres; elsewhere, rain mixed with snow is frequent, and the sky is often completely overcast for many days on end.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 11:30, 10:10
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 15:15, 17:00
• Chance of sunshine: 13 per cent

Much of the tourist attractions in the centre and west of the island are completely inaccessible. You can only travel comfortably along the main roads. In the north and centre of Iceland, severe frosts of below -15 °C are not uncommon.

Weather in February

Weather forecasting in Iceland is generally quite challenging, and this is doubly true in February, which is one of the least predictable months of the year. The only certainty is that average temperatures range from around -3 °C to 3 °C, with temperatures in the north about 3 degrees lower.

Otherwise, the day can see rapid changes between sunshine, heavy rain, heavy snowfall, frost and above-zero temperatures, as well as fierce gales and complete calm. In short, February can showcase every aspect of Icelandic weather at its most extreme. On the other hand, it is precisely in the second half of February that the best conditions for observing the Northern Lights are usually found.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 10:10, 9:10
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 17:00, 18:00
• Chance of sunshine: 26 per cent

Weather in March

March is still a winter month in Iceland, but with rapidly increasing daylight. Expect typical temperatures to range from -2 °C to 4 °C; as always, there are strong winds, but they are not as unpleasant as in the middle of winter.

The weather changes rapidly throughout the day; it often rains, often snows and the sun often shines. Because the sun is still low on the horizon, it creates a magical play of light and shadow in the mornings and early evenings. The ice caves in the Skaftafell area, for example, are particularly beautiful in March. Early March is still a good time to see the Northern Lights.

• Sunrise (first and last day of the month) – approx. 8.30, 6.40
• Sunset (first and last day of the month) – approx. 18:30, 20:10
• Chance of sunshine: 30 per cent

All inland roads and most secondary roads in the Westfjords are closed, and main roads may be icy. March is a popular month for skiing.

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Weather in April

Average temperatures in southern Iceland finally rise above zero in April, ranging between 1 °C and 6 °C. Snow is now rare in the southern regions, but the north and the Icelandic Highlands are still covered in deep drifts, which is why most mountain roads remain closed.

Precipitation is decreasing, and it mostly rains or snows in the form of brief showers with frequent sunny spells. As April is no longer the Northern Lights season and, conversely, summer is still a long way off, accommodation prices are among the lowest of the year.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 6.30, 4.50
• Sunset (first and last day of the month) – approx. 20:15, 21:45
• Chance of sunshine: 36 per cent

Weather in May

May in Iceland is characterised by slowly rising temperatures, with a daily average of around 6 °C, though double-digit figures are appearing more and more frequently in the weather forecasts. The weather can be described as ‘alternately cloudy, alternately rainy’… just like any other month of the year, in fact.

The fact is, however, that weather extremes ease off in May, and particularly strong winds are rare. Frost lasting the whole day is only found high up in the mountains.

The first campsites open in May, and by the end of the month some mountain roads also open. From the second half of May, the first leaves appear on the trees and the grass begins to turn green.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 4.45 am, 3.00 am
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 21:50, 23:30
• Chance of sunshine: 37 per cent

From the second half of May onwards, you won’t experience a completely dark night in Iceland, although it does get noticeably darker for at least 2–3 hours in the middle of the night.

Weather in June

June in Iceland could be described as the first summer month. Daytime temperatures typically hover around 13 °C, though in the south they may occasionally reach as high as 20 °C. June is the least rainy month, but the likelihood of a few drops of rain at least once a day is very high, so do bring a jacket.

The Icelandic landscape is a lush green; the snow is retreating even from the mountains, opening up the last of the mountain roads and campsites. June is also best known forthe midnight sun.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 3:00, 2:00
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 23:30, 0:15
• Chance of sunshine: 30%

As the whole of Iceland lies within the Arctic Circle, the sun always disappears completely below the horizon for at least an hour; however, throughout the night it remains as light as during a normal sunrise or sunset, so do not expect twilight or even darkness.

Weather in July

Statistically, July is the warmest month in Iceland, with an average temperature of around 15 °C; in extreme cases, temperatures in the south can even exceed 20 °C. Occasional rain showers occur, and for much of the day the sun alternates with clouds, making July one of the best months for travelling in Iceland.

All roads are now fully open; snow remains only in the highest mountain areas and on the glaciers. However, the melting glacial caves are closed, as they can be dangerously unstable.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 2.00, 4.15
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 00:15, 22:30
• Chance of sunshine: 30 per cent

Even in July, you will never experience a dark night; it only starts to get twilight in the middle of the night towards the end of the month, but still not enough to require the outdoor streetlights to be switched on.

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Weather in August

August can be described as the last month of summer. Temperatures remain at a pleasant 14 °C; it practically never snows anywhere in Iceland, and rain comes only in the form of showers. Even in August, you’re very likely to have sunny weather for at least part of the day. In the north and east, temperatures can rise above 18 °C in August.

However, the differences between day and night are starting to become noticeable, both in terms of temperature and daylight. The countryside is still a rich green – unless you’re in the year-round grey volcanic landscape.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 4.15, 5.50
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 22:30, 20:40
• Chance of sunshine: 33%

Weather in September

September is the month when the summer season ends in Iceland. Temperatures drop to 12 °C, but frost is rare except in the highest mountain areas, and snow falls only occasionally during the night. Rain showers and overcast skies are becoming an increasingly common occurrence, though rarely unpleasant enough to significantly affect your holiday.

Thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, relatively high temperatures persist until the end of the month; however, the wind begins to blow more strongly, so warmer clothing will be needed. The few trees that grow in Iceland turn beautiful autumnal colours, but the meadows remain green.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 5.50, 7.20
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 20:40, 19:00
• Chance of sunshine: 30%

Most campsites usually close at the end of September.

Weather in October

October is the month when average temperatures return to single figures, around 8 °C, and are about one degree lower in the north. Heavy downpours lasting more than an hour are common, though it rarely rains all day. In coastal areas, snow is still a rare occurrence, but in the mountains it is already beginning to snow regularly, meaning the first side roads are closing.

The trees (usually only in towns, as there are none in the countryside) are colourful, and the grass is slowly turning brown. Towards the end of the month, there is a chance of seeing the Northern Lights, though you can still enjoy relatively long daylight hours.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 7.20, 9.00
• Sunset (first and last day of the month) – approx. 19:00, 17:00
• Chance of sunshine: 30 per cent

Weather in November

By November, winter is well and truly setting in across Iceland. The average temperature in the south hovers around 0 °C, whilst in the north and east it is around -1 °C. Snow is falling more and more frequently even in the lowlands; the sky is overcast for most of the day, and the sun’s rays mainly break through on the southern and western coasts. 

November tends to be one of the most unpredictable months; the weather changes very quickly, with heavy rain giving way to heavy snowfall, windy spells followed by calm, and the occasional glimpse of sunshine.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 9.00, 10.50
• Sunset (first and last day of the month) – approx. 17:00, 15:30
• Chance of sunshine 20%

Weather in December

December is the darkest month in Iceland. Temperatures average around -2 °C, and in the north around -4 °C. In December, it snows regularly across the whole island, though the far south-west around Reykjavík may occasionally experience rain showers.

Thanks to the long nights, December is a good month for viewing the Northern Lights; however, the downside is that the sky is often overcast for long periods, which naturally makes viewing impossible. The ideal activity for December is exploring glacial caves, which are safe and stable thanks to the frozen ice.

• Sunrise time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 10:50, 11:30
• Sunset time (first and last day of the month) – approx. 15:30, 15:15
• Chance of sunshine: 9%

Many side roads are impassable and the centre of the island is virtually completely inaccessible, as are large parts of the Westfjords peninsula.