In the wake of the war

In Sarajevo, you’ll experience many poignant moments whilst wandering through the streets. Even 25 years after the war, the traces of bullets, grenades and the hardships of war are evident at literally every turn. The most visible remnants are on the bullet-riddled façades of the prefabricated blocks of flats in the Nedžarići, Dobrinja and Alipašino polje estates.

Dozens or even hundreds of red ‘spatter marks’ on the pavements throughout the city catch the eye. You’ll find them at the spots where a grenade landed and killed or injured someone. The craters in the pavement were subsequently filled with red concrete, serving as sombre war memorials known as the ‘Sarajevo Roses’.

Do also visit one of the many cemeteries and quietly pay your respects to the more than 12,000 victims from Sarajevo alone. Take a look at the gravestones; on every other one you’ll see at least one name with a date of death between 1992 and 1995, the period of the Siege of Sarajevo…

Also worth mentioning are several museums dedicated to the war in Bosnia, such as:

• The Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide,
• The‘War Childhood’ Museum.

A blend of cultures

Nowhere else in Europe will you find a city where, within a few metres, you can experience such a striking blend of cultures, both ethnic and religious. Sarajevo is, quite simply, different. In one square, you’ll feel as though you’re in Turkey; 20 metres further on, you’ll visit a Christian cathedral; the next block of streets will remind you of the Austro-Hungarian era; and the housing estates bear the indelible mark of the communist era.

What’s more, the coexistence of different groups – at least in Sarajevo itself – is harmonious, which is also a relatively unique situation in today’s world.

Drinking coffee

There’s no need to rush anywhere; stop off at one of the many cafés and try some traditional Bosnian coffee. At first glance, it’s clear that both the preparation and the serving in a traditional cezve are strongly influenced by Turkey, or rather the Ottoman Empire. However, Bosnian coffee does differ from its Turkish counterpart, primarily in the way it’s prepared.

Either way, whilst sipping your coffee, you’ll find yourself transported to the crossroads of Europe and the Islamic world and enjoy a touch of the exotic.

Walks and views

Get a glimpse into everyday life and set off along the narrow, winding streets leading steeply from the centre up into the hills. Villas and village cottages, open courtyards, the charm of village life with the city in the background… As an added bonus, you’ll be treated to superb and unique views of the whole of Sarajevo, which get better the higher you climb.

Skiing

It was no coincidence that the 1984 Winter Olympics were held in Sarajevo. The surrounding area is home to 2,000-metre-high mountains, and despite the relatively mild winters, you can still go skiing here. Bear in mind that the local ski resorts will keep you entertained for about half a day; there aren’t many slopes, they’re often overcrowded (especially at weekends), the equipment is outdated and the condition of the slopes… isn’t worth mentioning. But if you’re heading to Bosnia in January or February, skiing could be an interesting way to spice up your trip. There are three resorts in the area:

• Jahorina (the largest, with 25 km of slopes),
• Baščaršija (the best known, where most of the 1984 Winter Olympics competitions took place, with 12.5 km of slopes),
• Igman (the smallest, with 3 km of slopes).

Trips in the surrounding area

The city is set amidst a picturesque landscape of mountains, deep valleys and forests. In fact, wherever you head into the countryside in Bosnia, you can’t go wrong. When heading out into the countryside, however, bear in mind that you’ll need your own car or a hire car, or be prepared for long walks from the main routes accessible by public transport.

Among the nearby towns that are easily accessible from Sarajevo for a day trip, we can mention Konjic with its magnificent stone bridge over the River Neretva, or perhaps Travnik and Zenica, typical Bosnian small towns nestled amongst green hills.