In Sarajevo, you only need to walk a few hundred metres to find yourself amongst Austro-Hungarian palaces after leaving the narrow streets of the Ottoman Baščaršija.

Minarets, church spires and socialist high-rises rise above the rooftops, whilst the whole city is embraced by steep green hills. Few places see the Orient, Central Europe and the Balkans come together as naturally as they do here.

The history of the siege cannot be ignored when visiting Sarajevo, but the city is certainly not just a war museum. The Tunnel of Salvation and Sniper’s Alley help you understand its past, whilst modern-day Sarajevo comes alive with bustling cafés, Bosnian coffee, čevapi and evenings spent at vantage points.

The city centre is compact and you can easily walk to most places. Set aside two to three days for your first visit – two days are enough for the city, and you can spend the third exploring Trebević, the Tunnel of Hope or taking a trip to the Vrelo Bosne spring.

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